Effect of finishing chemicals on tearing strength of plain-woven cotton fabric

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to assess the relationships amongst the tearing strength of fabrics after each chemical processing stage and after finishing of plain-woven cotton fabric. An effort has been made to study the effect of different finishing chemicals (tear improver) and their different concentrations on the high-density fabric tear strength and its sub-component with respect to the co-efficient of friction value of yarns for all the fabric samples. It also aims to establish a statistical model for prediction of tear strength with identified parameters as yarn–yarn friction co-efficient, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength.

Design/methodology/approach

In case of woven fabrics, it cannot be assumed that only yarn friction plays the role in deciding fabric-tearing strength. Whether the static or kinetic frictions need to be considered or the linear or capstan frictions have to be analyzed, to incorporate the results of friction analysis in the tearing behavior, need to be assessed. In the present work through a fabrication of yarn–yarn friction measurement, under a synchronized slow speed as that of actual fabric tearing (50 mm/min), has been carried out. After each wet processing stage, surface characteristics of yarns have been changed. Surface of yarns becomes smoother after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns, accordingly.

Findings

After each wet processing stage, the surface characteristics of yarns are changed. Surface structure of yarns becomes smooth after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns. For all the fabrics, the weft-way tearing strength is always higher than warp-way tearing strength. It is also observed that yarn pullout force is not the only responsible factor for tearing strength of such fabric. It is because of the combined action of yarn–yarn friction, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength for a given structure.

Research limitations/implications

A more extensive investigation with respect to concentration as well as further variety of chemicals requires to be identified for the optimum concentration level for each chemical. A mathematical model based on the three parameters as yarn–yarn co-efficient of friction, yarn pullout force and yarn strength for all woven fabric structure to achieve optimum strength level has been established which could be further extended for each fabric structures.

Practical implications

The problem has been identified from the day-to-day exercise of the commercial textile industry. The whole of the sample preparations have been done in the industry by using commercial machines under standard industrial conditions. The findings have been discussed and suitably introduced in the industry.

Originality/value

The whole of this paper has been unique in idea origination, sample preparation and execution of tests. The findings are very important for the researchers as well as for textile industry.

Citation

Gupta, P., Datta Roy, M. and Ghosh, S. (2020), "Effect of finishing chemicals on tearing strength of plain-woven cotton fabric", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 24 No. 3, pp. 229-243. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-09-2019-0043