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Study of hooked fiber in cotton yarn based on tracer fiber method

Xiangting Chu (College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, PR China)
Jian Gao (Uster Technologies (China) Co., Ltd., Suzhou, PR China)
Hongdou Zhang (College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, PR China)
Huiwen Lu (Uster Technologies (China) Co., Ltd., Suzhou, PR China)
Xinjin Liu (College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, PR China)
Xuzhong Su (College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, PR China)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 14 June 2024

Issue publication date: 6 August 2024

22

Abstract

Purpose

Through the tracer fiber method, we strive to more accurately obtain the hook degree, straightening degree, percentage and other characteristic indexes. In order to intuitively represent the hook state from sliver to yarn, and feed back production information in combination with quality test.

Design/methodology/approach

Taking the cotton fiber as an example, the hooked fibers were studied by using the tracer fiber method. Tracer fibers were made from cotton-type viscose fibers. Tracer fibers and combed cotton fibers were uniformly mixed for many times and used to produce the card sliver, semi-drawn sliver, drawn sliver, roving and yarn. With the help of ZF-20D ultraviolet analyzer, geometric parameters of hooked fibers were measured, and characterization indexes were calculated. And hook indexes and quality indexes were compared.

Findings

By redefining and reclassifying hooked fibers, the change of hooked fibers in the process was tracked and characterized carefully. Some hooks in card sliver are straightened but not eliminated, and will form longer zero-angled hooks in the subsequent process. The straightening degree and number of zero-angled hooks affect the evenness CV mainly.

Originality/value

The characterization of hooked fibers is important for reducing hooked fibers and spinning high quality yarns. There is no uniform standard for the characterization of hooked fibers at present. Most studies are about relationship between process and hook in carding and drawing. There is no research on hooked fibers in the whole spinning process. In the paper, hooked fibers were redefined and reclassified, the change of hooked fibers in the process was tracked and characterized carefully.

Keywords

Citation

Chu, X., Gao, J., Zhang, H., Lu, H., Liu, X. and Su, X. (2024), "Study of hooked fiber in cotton yarn based on tracer fiber method", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36 No. 5, pp. 849-871. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-12-2023-0186

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2024, Emerald Publishing Limited

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