The effects of finishing processes on the dynamic drape of wool fabrics
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
ISSN: 0955-6222
Article publication date: 9 January 2019
Issue publication date: 3 April 2019
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviour of eight different types of woollen fabrics each treated by three different finishing processes.
Design/methodology/approach
A new apparatus was used to evaluate the dynamic drape formation process of woollen fabrics during the rotation of the samples at different speed grades of 0 (static drape), 30, 60, 90, 120, 150 and 180 rev/min for each sample. The computerised image analysis method was used to measure the drape coefficients (DCs).
Findings
As a result of experiments, it was found that shearing, calendaring, pressing processes affected the drapability and drape behaviour negatively, but belt pressing treatment and decatising process improved the drapability and the drape behaviour for all fabrics. Furthermore, there is a reverse relationship between fabric weight and drape behaviour. As the fabric weight increases, DC value increases due to the increase of fabric tightness.
Originality/value
To date, although many researchers have studied the static draping behaviour, the studies regarding the dynamic drape behaviour of the fabrics are quite limited to an extent. Besides, none of these studies regarding the drape behaviour have investigated the effects of different finishing processes on the drape behaviour of wool fabrics.
Keywords
Acknowledgements
This work is sponsored by the research project between Turkey and Slovenia titled: “The usage of new technologies for studying the effect of finishing process on the mechanical and drape parameters of textile materials” 107M228 for period 2008-2010.
Citation
Eryuruk, S.H., Kursun Bahadir, S., Saricam, C. and Kalaoglu, F. (2019), "The effects of finishing processes on the dynamic drape of wool fabrics", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 31 No. 2, pp. 195-206. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-05-2018-0065
Publisher
:Emerald Publishing Limited
Copyright © 2019, Emerald Publishing Limited