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Investigation of the effects of different needle hole covering techniques on seam characteristics of waterproof breathable fabric

Abhishek Kumar (School of Design, UPES, Dehradun, India) (Amity School of Fashion Technology, Amity University Uttar Pradesh, Noida, India)
Manpreet Manshahia (Amity School of Fashion Technology, Amity University Uttar Pradesh, Noida, India)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 7 June 2024

Issue publication date: 6 August 2024

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Abstract

Purpose

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to penetrate inside the garment, compromising its functionality. This study aims to investigate different techniques for covering the needle holes formed during stitching to achieve a seam that is waterproof, durable and functionally effective.

Design/methodology/approach

This study investigates different methods to cover needle holes formed during stitching with the help of seam tape, seam grip adhesive and fuser thread. The emphasis is on evaluating the seam characteristics, including seam strength, seam efficiency, puckering, bending stiffness and resistance to water penetration. Statistical analysis involves the use of the Shapiro–Wilk test, Levene statistic, one-way ANOVA and Tukey’s HSD and Tamhane post-hoc tests.

Findings

The experimental results suggest that seam tape is effective in enhancing water resistance, seam strength and seam efficiency, but it contributes to stiffness and aesthetically degrades seams due to increased puckering. Meanwhile, the use of fuser thread presents an alternative, exhibiting improved waterproof properties compared to regular stitching. It offers more flexibility and less puckering compared to seam tape.

Originality/value

This study contributes novel insights by shifting the focus from alternative seaming methods such as bonding and welding, to enhancing traditional stitching for waterproof seam construction. While prior research primarily explored alternatives to stitching, this study uniquely addresses the effectiveness of different techniques in covering needle holes to achieve waterproof seams. The findings provide valuable information for enhancing the functionality of stitched seams in the production of waterproof breathable garments.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

We express our gratitude for the assistance provided by Vardhman Threads in supplying the fuser thread utilized in this research. All additional materials employed in this study were procured through standard retail channels. We appreciate the support of NITRA, Ghaziabad, in facilitating the hydrostatic pressure test. The remaining experimental and research activities took place at the laboratories of Amity University, Noida, and UPES, Dehradun. It is important to note that none of the authors have affiliations with the manufacturers or products investigated in this research.

Declaration of conflicting interests: The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

Funding: The authors received no financial support for the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.

Data availability statement: Data will be available upon reasonable request (owing to privacy/ ethical restrictions).

Citation

Kumar, A. and Manshahia, M. (2024), "Investigation of the effects of different needle hole covering techniques on seam characteristics of waterproof breathable fabric", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36 No. 5, pp. 803-821. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-02-2024-0035

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2024, Emerald Publishing Limited

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