Computer‐aided Pattern Design and Product Development

Citation

Culliney, C. (2006), "Computer‐aided Pattern Design and Product Development", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 10 No. 4, pp. 508-509. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610702018

Alison Beazley and Terry Bond have between them extensive experience in the complexities of pattern technology. They have spent considerable time studying manual and computer generated pattern technology. This book is based on their combined research and comprehensively covers pattern construction, computerised grading, sizing and marker making together with an overview of product data management.

The preface indicates the intention to review a range of computer software packages for pattern design and product development, giving assistance to computer operators in pattern design, lay planning and grading. The aim is to provide the principles of garment product development to computer operators or students in clothing technology and to aid the transition to computer‐aided design (CAD) systems for those conversant with manual pattern construction.

The authors commence with an overview of developments in computer aided clothing design. This section introduces a variety of 2D and 3D systems produced by Lectra, Pad System and Gerber Technology. Product data management software is presented and discussed together with recent developments in 3D visual merchandising and body scanning.

Part 1 is a comprehensive section which includes a detailed account on the taking and recording of measurements both manually and using computerised measurement systems, followed by the development of women's size charts. These comprehensive charts include body measurements and ease and grade increments and are discussed in relation to the production of a range of sizes. Pattern construction techniques are explained in detail from the construction and adaptation of block patterns to the creation of computerised pattern shapes including modelling, drafting, suppressing and flaring.

The next section on computerised pattern grading might be off‐putting to those with little understanding of the subject. Examples of grade rule tables initially appear confusing, but it must be recognised that grading is a complex subject area and a basic understanding is required to ensure accurate well‐proportioned production patterns. The preparation and digitising of a master pattern prior to grading is covered in detail.

Pattern design procedures are covered in depth with extensive information provided in relation to direct draft and block pattern adaptation and the grading of these pattern pieces. Topics covered include skirt styling, pockets, waistbands, bodice styling, collars and sleeves. The preparation of production patterns including seam allowances and facings complete the section which could be used equally for manual or computerised pattern construction.

The adaptation of patterns to accommodate variations in body shape and fit is included in the fourth chapter. Variations in bone structure, posture, body size and contour are a specialist area and the appropriate pattern modifications are discussed in detail. Also included in this section are computerised made to measure systems which focus on Gerber's Accumark Made to Measure software. A section on 3D pattern design systems discusses the developments in this area with particular reference to Gerber software. The ability to move from 2D to 3D, linking flat patterns to garments draped on a virtual mannequin is an area of interest.

Part 5 comprises a brief section on effective marker making and lay planning and its effect on material utilisation. Topics covered include markers for striped and check fabrics, planning markers and computerised fabric spreading and cutting.

The final section mentions offshore manufacturing and the introduction of effective supply chains where quick response communication is imperative, where product data management (PDM) systems have become the industry standard, recording and tracking design, sourcing and delivery. Stored data can be communicated electronically to clients and manufacturers throughout the world via PDM systems.

Computer‐aided Pattern Design and Product Development is clearly written and simple to understand. It is an excellent source of information for those interested in both manual and computerised pattern design. However, new developments in CAD systems will require regular updates to ensure that the book keeps pace with new technology.